photo Pongee


Pongee (called tsumugi ori in Japanese) is a type of silk fabric woven with spun silk threads. The surface is not as smooth or glossy as that of silk woven with raw silk threads and it has a plainer, more casual look. Traditionally it was often woven in striped or kasuri patterns, but recently it has become possible to produce a wide range of gradations and other designs using various types of dyed threads.
Pongee fabric is highly suitable for kimonos and kimono sashes because of its strong, supple texture.

Production of spun silk thread

  1. 1.Silkworms produce thread that form a cocoon.
  2. 2.From left to right, raw silk thread, cocoon floss fibers, and silkworm cocoons can be seen.
  3. 3.Thread is drawn out of the cocoon fibers.
  4. 4.The thread is dipped into dye.

Production of pongee fabric

  1. 1.The warp (vertical) threads are aligned on the warp beam of a loom and wound up.
  2. 2.The weft (horizontal) threads are wound on to a spindle and placed on a device called a shuttle.
  3. 3.Threads are woven together by passing the weft threads on the shuttle through the warp threads on the loom.
  4. 4.Fabric that is about 40 centimeters wide (about 15.7 inches) and 13 meters long (about 42.7 feet) is enough for one kimono.
  • "What Are Traditional Crafts? -A Guidebook to Seeing, Learning, and Enjoying-" Edited by the Japan Kogei Association Eastern Branch. Published by Unsodo Reference artworks